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Thread: Maxtrax vs competitor

  1. #21
    OLC Member klahanie's Avatar
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    Hah, now you have me thinking I should back the bolts off for flex - I wonder what they should be torqued to - 5/16 ss with washers - anyone ??

    Oh, I think it will bend, might need a 10 or 12" inverted and nested for bridging but that will be more $ and will trouble storage. Currently I'm under maxtrax cost, had I gone 4' L it would have been 1/3 cheaper (2 parent pieces -> 6 cut lengths)

    bought material here :https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

    used to be/sometimes called shur grip. ask for the open hole type or take a pic in like I did ...

  2. #22
    OLC Member klahanie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjustin View Post
    Awesome
    sigh, if only they were orange ...

  3. #23
    OLC Member binrat's Avatar
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    Looking good.

  4. #24
    OLC Member cruiserpilot's Avatar
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    I would be careful and research the bolts carefully. 5/16" will just shear off I think. I think most bolts are hardened or classed for tensile strength, Gr 5 or Gr 8.
    I just don't remember. I'll do a search and see what I find out.
    A long time ago, I built an anti-wrap bar for my FJ40 cause it had spring over and 38.5" Swampers. I wanted a weak link, so I bolted it on with standard hardware
    bolts Sure enough, those bolts sheared right off and also exposed a separate weakness that I since solved. But I knew they would shear.
    So long story short, if you are bolting this together to take a serious weight, then I guess maybe find a welder, and stitch weld it. It would be a shame to have
    the bolts to shear under load out somewhere.
    Here is a page I was able to find.
    https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ade-chart.aspx
    I would probably think minimum 3/8" Gr 8, my opinion only
    Last edited by cruiserpilot; 08-03-2017 at 07:19 PM.

  5. #25
    OLC Member klahanie's Avatar
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    Thanks for that J and I hear you. Prob going to beef them up before testing. Increasing fastener hole size is going to be tricky because Jed just had to use thermal bonding tape and ain't no man alive can pull the strips apart unaided. Took a quick look online at tensile strengths, cold work, stain hardening etc - the usual rabbit hole... hey, we're getting out of the "big smoke" for a road trip and I'm plumb outta time to d*ck with this project for now.

    see ya later ...

  6. #26
    OLC Member cruiserpilot's Avatar
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    Have a good time, I'm scheduled to head north on last week of Aug. Hope the smoke has a chance to blow away by then.

  7. #27
    OLC Member montymbad's Avatar
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    If you stick with bolting them, go with grade 5 not 8. Grade 5 has a larger difference between tensile and yeild strengths. With grade 8, they will be likely to shear before you notice any distortion. And I would torque them as much as you safely can. You don't want them flexing individually. holding the two pieces tight they will act like 1 and give you a much lower chance of catastrophic failure. ALso, if you allow it to flex individually, you will wallow out the holes, and then have the bolt heads/washers popping through the aluminum. I would stick to at least 7/16 or 1/2" myself.

  8. #28
    OLC Member klahanie's Avatar
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    tested unaltered. bit of temporary deflection, say 3/8". messed up with my test and ended up resting one board on an uneven surface, concentrating wt on one corner so some the 0.125" AL flanges were bent at one end as well as it caused a bit of distortion, width wise. not surprising really with a 5 1/4 tonne rig. it highlighted a concern I had that the underside prob wouldn't be robust enough for real world use - fine on a drive way, not so much in a rocky ditch. I think end caps and/or some flat bar across the flanges underneath would be beneficial - again welding would be useful. downside would be tougher to nest two for storage.



    so I borrowed 55er's idea and bought some 12" wide to nest placing the existing 15" W underneath. worked great except I have nowhere to carry that bulk size easily. and if a "tool" is not easy to access and deploy the chances are higher we'll turn around at an obstacle.



    so I split off 5" from the 15"w to have a 10"w (2x5") nested in a 12". that gives a much better contact surface for the ground ( I assume). tested ...





    flipped the other way, 10"w face up. didn't bend as much ? grip tread a bit narrower than I'd like ...
    * ON EDIT sorry this is the correct pic. *



    yes it did bend. these were nested, the 10"w at left, 12"w at right. I guess I could alternate the orientation each use to keep them more or less flat !



    do over, I think for bridging I'd use plywood with some expanded metal attached for grip. and for traction prob go with the maxtrax.
    hope to test my version in the field soon.
    Last edited by klahanie; 09-01-2017 at 11:06 AM. Reason: fix pic order and ammend for clarity

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