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Thread: CND M101 build "The Outside Inn"

  1. #1
    OLC Member RamRod's Avatar
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    Default CND M101 build "The Outside Inn"

    So as I mentioned in the other thread today I picked up a new to me Canadian military M101 this past Septembe... I got this unit with a bunch of mods done to it already at a fair price, but it still needs a bunch of work if it's going to up to my Overland trip planned for next fall.

    The pervious owner sand blasted the whole thing, built a lid & got it all Line-x'ed inside and out, top to bottom with a two tone black on top maroon on the bottom. After that he decided to add a tailgate which required the re-location of the brake and signal lights and for a bunch of the line-x to be removed off the rear (both still need attention)



    The next area that needs attention will be the hinges and the latches.... The hardware chosen by the PO belong in a wood working shop and have no business holding and pivoting this lid!



    After that I will remove all of the external tie downs the PO installed. You can see the shining in the pic below


    I already moved the Thule bars and mounted the CVT tent, so technically it's functional.... But there is still a long list of "to do's"

    The plan is to put hummer H3T OEM 16" wheels with a matching tire size to the T... And an SOA swap to get things more level.

    I also plan on building a simple rear bumper for this beast to house the tail and signal lights and a hitch receiver to do some light duty work (haul bikes or something)

    As I will be adding reverse lights to the rear of the trailer I have upgraded the 4 pin trailer connect to the 7 pin which will also provide charging to my house battery which will be houses in the tongue box up front.

    Lastly I will be building a kitchen the pulls out the back that will be a combo of these two


    Then it will be re line-x'ed all black and ready for years for adventure!
    I also removed the tie down rings that the PO installed, 8 in all.... So that bumps the total up by 16 more holes to fill!

    Looks way better with the tie downs removed and I want them gone as they will interfere with some of my future plans


    V


    The SOA worked perfectly!
    Here's a drive way shot and what the iLevel app is telling me:


    Now I just need the larger tires to fill this gap!


    September 15th update:
    Before taking the trailer out on its inaugural run I quickly wired up some marker lights for the side and switched the wiring from a 4 pin connector to a 7 pin connector cleaned up the wiring and then took a spare battery I had and wired it up temporarily as well.

    When it came time to wire up the new plug I found this diagram very helpful so I figured I'd share it

    So far the trailer has been towed approximately 600km's on pavement, 280km's on forestry roads and about 20km's off-road. It's handled well, but one thing is for certain.

    I NEED to get rid of the pintle hitch setup or the banging and constant, but slight, wobbling will drive me insane on any long trips! Let alone one trail I plan to take it down that cross crosses a river bed 20 times each way with thousands of pintle hitch rattling boulders along the path.... Nope not going to happen! So I believe I will be placing an order for a Max Coupler soon.

    This trip was a great shake down weekend to get familiar with how we would like to finish our setup:
    1- there is plenty of room under the trailer for a water tank (with a skid of course)

    2-am a little disappointed in the fact that I discovered that an awning won't work with my current RTT setup as the tensioning rod that holds up the rain fly is in the way and the fly is much too slack without being setup.. Plus I like being able to open up that panel and allow a cross breeze to flow through the tent

    3- As mentioned the pintle hitch HAS to go

    4-running matching tires and rims will gain me so much extra space with the spare removed from inside the tub

    5- proper latches and straps with be a welcomed addition to the lid and tail gate (already done that, see later in post)

    6- better weather stripping is needed to keep the fine dust

    With that said, here are some pics!



    Camped on this little peninsula:

    This was our view out the RTT


    I picked up a small solar panel and controller to keep the battery topped up as best as possible, installing it as I type... Well not exactly, but when your working in the snow a guy has to come in and warm up!

    I also found a couple of really good panels to use for building up the kitchen...it's cheap partial board covered in some kind of vinyl, so it will be easy to clean and won't require any paint Never would have thought of it but in the "As is" section at IKEA there can be some great scraps if you dig around enough and know what size of panel you need. You can see one on the side of the trailer (it still needs some legs to help support it) and the other on the ground that will be the top of the kitchen pull out.



    Here is a quick how to build a counter for on top of the fender to give us more food prep and cooking area than just the tailgate...

    I wanted a solid way of mounting that table,but also wanted something so simple that the GF could do it herself if she needed to.

    I ended up using item "J" in the image below. These trick piece of hardware were ordered from Lee Valley Tools:

    How they fit together:


    It is slightly tapered and the further they slide in to each other the tighter they get

    Then all I had to do was measure and mount each side so it all lines up

    And there you go, it can't twist or lift up and it's K9 approved



    It's took me a long while but I finally got all the hardware that I mentioned I needed in the above posts to improve the current setup.



    Three locking draw latches for the lid
    Four hinges (prob only going to use three) again for the lid
    Two paddle latches (one is lockable) for the tailgate


    As you can see in the first pic attached the PO installed a bunch of different latched on the one side of the tub/lid.... The problems with this setup are
    1- they are made of steel and are already very rusty
    2- they have a removable pin that can be taken out in a matter of seconds if someone really wanted to get in
    3- they are far too small for the job at hand
    4- they were installed with a mix match of hardware and that just drives me nuts!

    Got all the hardware installed over the weekend, not 100% happy with the hinge side of things and may rework it some more! but it's still 50 times better the the previous setup and am willing to put up with it for now.





    And that brings this thread mostly up to date! more to come

  2. #2
    OLC Member binrat's Avatar
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    Nice.

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    Looking really nice. Can you unhook it from the h3t and go exploring? Can't see any stabilizing jacks.

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    OLC Member Lucky j's Avatar
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    How much to help you get rid of that pintle?

  5. #5
    OLC Member RamRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xkid View Post
    Looking really nice. Can you unhook it from the h3t and go exploring? Can't see any stabilizing jacks.
    No stabilizers yet, I hope to come up with something over the XMas break when I build my rear bumper... Stay tuned for me details on that!

  6. #6
    OLC Member RamRod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky j View Post
    How much to help you get rid of that pintle?
    Well I am not sure, I have had two trains of thought

    1- I could cut the pintle off and use the shaft to make my own Max Coupler style hitch similar to the pic below

    2- Sell it, weld up a bolt in adapter similar to the pic below and just buy a Max Coupler


    I am open to offers

  7. #7
    OLC Member RamRod's Avatar
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    So I really hate this pintle hitch setup! It allows the trailer to jump around too much under normal driving conditions even with weight in it and is just an absolute Kangaroo when there is little or no weight.

    As such it's the next thing I am going to check off on my "it works, but I am going to make it better" list.

    What the goal to achieve is a hitch that can:
    -pivot in all three axis
    -has zero slop
    -Is easy to separate from the tow unit
    -Unique enough design that it makes the trailer difficult to steal while disconnected from the towing vehicle
    -ability to be towed by any rig with a 2" hitch receiver
    -lengthen the setup enough to use tire swing out while connected to the trailer

    But above all else is that it's safe, secure, simple

    The easy way to achieve the list above would be to spend $250-300 on a "Max Coupler" made by Adventure trailers:



    But that would mean waiting a week or two, not being creative, and $250-300 poorer.

    Instead I went over to a trusty Automotive and Agricultural store I am sure most of us has spent a good amount of time in, and walked around until I found all the right parts to take the general idea I had in my mind to physical parts that can be bolted, pinned and welded together to make a 3-axis hitch.

    With the parts I picked up I have been able to hit every item on my wish list! Even extending the hitch by approx 48"!!!

    Just some assembly required, more to come later tonight/weekend

  8. #8
    OLC Member binrat's Avatar
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    Pricey but if you are not handy then worth it. Post up some pictures of your build if you could.

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    Short tongue, hard to back up.

  10. #10
    OLC Member binrat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xkid View Post
    Short tongue, hard to back up.
    After towing one of those for many years you get used to it.

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